Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 4: birds, burning, and bumbling around

Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 4: birds, burning, and bumbling around

Day 4 of our ongoing trip in Hanoi, Vietnam, and we spent the day meeting up with a  friend and just discovering more about this city.

By complete coincidence, it turned out that a friend of ours from back home was planning a trip to Southeast Asia at the exact same time as us; today, our paths finally crossed.

Shaughnessy arrived late the previous night from Bangkok, but had been in no shape to go out, so we connected with him this morning. We decided that an easy thing to do would be to take an electric bus tour of the city. It only cost us 300,000 VND to rent the bus and driver for an hour’s tour of the city. Marcie and I had walked so many of these labyrinthine streets already, but it was neat to see from this new perspective, whipping around in this tuk-tuk-style vehicle.

In truth, we spent most of the trip catching up with Shaughnessy and hearing about his adventures in Thailand and comparing stories. One thing that did catch my eye, was the old city gate.

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Built in 1749, this is all that remains of the wall that once surrounded the old city of Hanoi.

After the tour came to an end, we caught some lunch, then ended up helping Shaughnessy finding a hotel for a night. Seems like he had bungled up his booking, so had no place to stay for the night, so we ended up scavenging the city in attempt to find him a room. One hotel sent us to another, then another, and each meant another trek through the chaotic city.

And chaotic it was. You see, when we started out in the early afternoon, the streets were quite sedate (I find it always quiets down here at that time of day), but, as our venture continued,  I could feel the energy on the streets palpably increase until it reached a full frenzy. Welcome to Friday evening in Hanoi, I guess!

So, despite this being our fourth day in the city, there were all kinds of new sights to be seen, including:

  • A rooster (crowing like it was sun rise)
  • Many people burning votives (offerings)—so a lot of open flames on all the already-perilous sidewalks
  • An old man peeing in the middle of an ornamental garden
  • People with super-loaded bicycle carts of goods to sell

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  • Song birds in cages lining the back alleys
  • An infant girl strutting out from her mom’s shop, onto the sidewalk, hiking up her dress, and peeing like no tomorrow.

To be honest, too much peeing for my liking . . . but the song birds were a surprise. We have been down so many alleys and narrow streets, but today was the first day we saw so many birds out. Perhaps, it’s a custom peculiar to Fridays? My preliminary research hasn’t revealed much except that keeping song birds is a cultural customs here.

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As for the burning of offerings, it seems to be something done according to specific days in the lunar calendar. I saw people burning paper and different types of colourful fabric, including felt.

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Here’s a few pictures I tried to snap while we navigated the frenzy:

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In the midst of all this, we passed a school, and got to watch the amusing and universal scene of children scampering out of their classrooms on the last day of the week. Except here in Vietnam, there are no parents waiting in their cars to collect them. They’re waiting on their scooters. And on the children jumped, and off they zoomed, into the moving maze.

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Eventually, we sorted out a hotel for Shaughnessy, and Marcie and I and made our way back to our hotel. Along the way, I needed to fetch a pair of trousers I had purchased in the morning that had needed tailoring. What an expert job, and completed within the day!

After a quick rest, we headed back out into the streets to reconnect with Shaughnessy and visit the Friday night life of Hanoi. The whole of the old quarter is entered around Hoàn Kiém Lake. The road that rings the lake is usually teeming with traffic, but on the weekend nights they close it to the traffic and it’s magically converted into a family playground. Instead of incessant honking, you hear live music, chatter, laughter, and all the sounds of mirth that go with a world suddenly being released from the grim reality of the workday.

We had a lot of fun wandering around the lake, watching all the activities. We began at the enormous stage in one of the main round-about. Music blasted from this so loudly that you could feel the thrum in the pavement. I think there is a big concert happening there on Saturday night, but on this night, it was just pre-recorded music playing, with some dancers.

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Heading away from the stage, we found families immersed in many different entertainments. Children played skipping rope, or built wooden towers, or drove around in toy cars.

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There were live musicians, karaoke, fortune tellers, and, of course, plenty of treats to eat.

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The buildings and the remnants of old architecture were lit up. In short, we were in the midst of a festival!

nightmarket_archThe weather was perfect; the rain from earlier that day had abated and we found ourselves in mild twenty-degree weather.  We eventually made our way back to the main square and ventured up the market street. Like the main ring road, it had been closed to scooters and, here, countless vendors (and I mean, countless) had set up to sell their wares. To be honest, I didn’t find this part very interesting—it was just more of the same regular items that you can find everyday on the streets. I was hoping to find something antique or mysterious (like perhaps a doorknocker!), but if that section of the market exists, I haven’t found it (yet)!

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Well, that was are day (and night). Here are a few shots of the various details I discovered during our wanderings.

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Next up, a two-day tour of Halong Bay!

 

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Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 2: how to avoid scooters, buses, taxis, and tuk tuks

Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 2: how to avoid scooters, buses, taxis, and tuk tuks

My wife and I continue to explore the city of Hanoi as part of our “inspircation”—a vacation that involves research and world-building inspiration.

In particular, I’ve come to Vietnam to gather ideas for an upcoming book in my writing schedule (part of the new Zoone series that I’m working on with HarperCollins).

The day did not disappoint, as I found plenty of inspiration . . .

We began our itinerary by venturing out into the spiderweb of streets radiating out from our hotel. Nothing makes you feel as alive as navigating the whirling, buzzing, roaring streets of Hanoi. Back home, I see people crossing the busiest of intersections with their noses firmly planted in their phones, but such habits would lead to certain injury here!

The sidewalks are a maze of people socializing, cooking, selling wares, entreating you for your custom. It’s also not uncommon to suddenly hear a scooter humming from behind you! The paving stones are often uneven and broken. At one point, a car turned into an alley and struck a block of stone fallen away from the sidewalk. The driver did not discern what was going on, so kept pressing the accelerator—only to have the wedge-shaped stone suddenly spit out across the alley like the payload of some ancient catapult. This created quite a stir amongst the onlookers!

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There is always something different to see here. At one moment, you happen upon the most derelict door . . . the next a French Colonial building, painted in bright colours and sharp trim. Then, suddenly, a beautiful tree has insinuated itself into the architecture, its roots and vines twisting upwards through electrical cables.

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The collision of past and present is very apparent here. The scooters weave in and out, but it’s not uncommon to see the riders wearing nón lá (traditional Vietnamese hats), or to suddenly espy a woman wandering along, carrying a quang ganh (two baskets on either end of a bamboo stick).

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So many sights, smells and sounds. Especially sounds. The cacophony of the traffic noise is relentless. Honking is a way of life here. I have fantasies of discovering a shop that specializes entirely in installing, enhancing, and fixing car horns.

Yet . . . these are all things I love about this city. You certainly feel alive. Some people like to go for a beach holiday, but to me, nothing makes me feel more present and clear than exploring a city like this.

In just one day, we’ve become pretty adept at crossing the streets here, drawing on our previous practice in Bangkok. The trick is timing the scooters, cars, tuk tuks, and buses—all coming straight at you at different speeds and angles, and often swerving as they approach.

I should add that most intersections don’t have lights. The ones that do are a bit more manageable, but the ones that don’t—there’s some mystery at play here as to how the drivers and riders on the different intersecting routes sort themselves out. As a pedestrian, there is no opportune moment to cross—you just have to go for it. The key, is never stop moving. You stop, you juke, you jag . . . you’re probably done for.

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Eventually, we did require a break from the din, so we ducked inside the palatial gardens of the National Library of Vietnam. The library was originally founded by the French Colonial government, and it shows in the very European layout of the place. It was amazing to take a few steps off the street and suddenly find ourselves in a place where the traffic was muted and the birds were squawking.

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The library itself featured many old texts and newspapers, many of them in French.

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After the library, we found our way to the Museum of History. We purchased our tickets for a humble fee of 40,000 dong (less than 2 US dollars) and began exploring the gardens. There were many statues here, interspersed with beautiful bonsai-type trees.

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The trees gave me unexpected inspiration for a different world I’m building for Zoone, but I was most intrigued by the statues . . .

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That last one is a mythical tiger. Mythical, I suppose, because of that mischievous grin!

After we had our fill of the gardens, we went inside the museum itself. The museum covers the history of Vietnam from the prehistoric age, through the middle ages of repelling Chinese incursions, to French Colonization.

A couple pieces in particular caught our eye . . .

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This pair of whips jumped out at me (once again, for world-building purposes):

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One is made of bones, the other a manta ray tail.

After a quick lunch, we back-tracked through the city to the Women’s Museum. This is a unique exhibit chronicling the contribution of women in all aspects of Vietnamese society—from child-rearing, textiles, food preparation, agriculture, and even war.  There’s a different floor to cover each aspect.

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The museum is designed around a central installation of these beautifully decorated nón lá:

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I found a lot of unexpected inspiration here—unexpected because so many of the traditions and customs had been previously unfamiliar to me and they really helped me consider some angles for the world I’m building. In particular, I was quite interested to learn that many of the ethnic groups within Vietnam employed a matriarchal approach. So, instead of the woman going to live with the husband’s family, the reverse was the case.

Marcie and I were very captivated by the floor dedicated to women’s involvement in the Vietnam War. They were truly instrumental in that conflict; their strength, determination, and zeal really comes across in the exhibit.

The museum is very modern, incorporating a lot of multimedia, but, for me, I’m always the most attracted to the physical items. Here are some of my favourites that caught my eye . . .

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After the museums, we were pretty tuckered out, so we slogged back to our hotel and arranged traditional Vietnamese massages.

We’ve made arrangements for a tour of Halong Bay towards the end of the week—as for tomorrow, we’ve left it wide open for more exploration and discovery.

 

Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 1

Exploring Vietnam ~ Day 1

My wife Marcie and I just finished up a creativity camp in Korea and have now made our way south to Vietnam and Cambodia for some must-deserved R&R—and to discover new inspiration.

Visiting Vietnam is a bit trickier than going to other countries, just because of the advance paperwork that has to be completed. Visas have to be sought in advance and, once you arrive at the airport, it’s not a simple matter of going through immigration. You have to actually line up three times—once to hand in your passport and visa documents, once to retrieve them after they have been processed, and then once to go through the regular customs, like you would in any country.

Thankfully, Marcie had us prepared and we went through all the stages without a hitch. The only thing we needed during this time was patience, but we had only been on a five-hour flight from Korea, so weren’t plagued by jet lag, like so many other travellers we saw, scratching their heads as they tried to sort out the various steps.

Marcie had also arranged a car for us, so, once we cleared customs and collected our luggage, we were quickly on our way. Our first afternoon in Hanoi was rainy, misty, and just a bit magical. In fact, we were only in the car for about five minutes, when I looked out the window and saw my first water buffalo. Welcome to Vietnam!

Unfortunately, I wasn’t quick enough to snap a photo, but here’s a look at the landscape without Mr. Buffalo:

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Hanoi itself is a collision of cultures. The remnants of French colonialism can still be found in the architecture and the streets are a mixture of people in traditional clothing (love the hats), riding old bicycles or zipping along on scooters. Crossing the streets here sure keeps you on your toes. Having been to Bangkok several times, I have some experience!

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After getting settled into our hotel, the first thing we decided to do was go out and explore. Our hotel is a few minutes walk from Hoàn Kiém Lake, which means “Lake of the Returned Sword.”

According to legend, the Viet hero Le Loi was given a magic sword by the Divine Turtle that lives in the lake. Le Loi used the sword to fight off the invading Chinese and, after a successfully doing so, restored the weapon to the lake.

Today, Hoàn Kiém Lake is in the historical centre of Hanoi and its focal point is Tháp Rùa, or “Turtle Tower”, in the center. The haze was still clinging to the city as we ventured around the lake, giving us many mystical views.

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It may seem cool from the photos, but the temperature was in the 20-degree Celsius range and there was a tropical hint of humidity in the air. We ventured across the red bridge and visited the temple shrine on the other side.

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This afforded us not only a close look at the temple and its unique Vietnamese architecture, but at the various tropical trees.

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I especially love the details that we find in these spiritual places. Just check out this gorgeous incense burner . . . the handle actually appears as smoke billowing from the creature’s maw.

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I also decided that this tree root system looked like a sleeping giant who had been petrified by some magical force. (Or, perhaps, just by time!)

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After leaving the temple, we walked the circumference of the entire lake, which actually did not take very long, but gave us a glimpse at more of the old quarter. It is not uncommon to find bits of architecture just like this, sticking its neck out through modernity to remind us of the past.

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At this point, evening had settled in on Hanoi—and with it, the buzz of nightlife. We caught dinner in a lounge on a multi-story restaurant tower, which allowed us to sample local cuisine and also get a great view of the lake.

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More adventures await us!